This year, the fog was so thick that the crowd was a collection of disembodied voices. Men in long woolen coats and patched sweaters stood in a circle, their breath mixing with the smoke from cheap cigarettes. Kaleem Bhai, with a flourish, brought out the two combatants. One was a massive, dark-feathered brute with a neck like a wrestler. The other was a smaller, fiery-red bird with a surprising viciousness in its eye.
“What if the fog never lifts?” Sameer asked one morning, his eyes wide. “What if the whole world just stays like this, soft and silent?”
His day began not with an alarm, but with the sharp, sweet smell of burning eucalyptus leaves from the sigri —the small charcoal brazier—that his grandmother, Amma, insisted on keeping in their courtyard. The winter sun, a weak, orange disc, struggled to pierce the fog, offering little warmth but a great deal of beauty. Rohan would reluctantly peel himself out of his layered blankets—a old razai so heavy it felt like a hug—and shuffle to the kitchen, where the sound of Amma grinding spices was the city’s true morning anthem. winter time in india
“Beta, chai,” she would say, not as a request, but as a command, pushing a small, chipped cup towards him. The ginger tea, scalding hot and overly sweet, was the antidote to the bone-chill. He’d cradle the cup, warming his fingers, and watch as his father, Mr. Sharma, meticulously wrapped a pink woolen muffler around his neck, over and over, until only his glasses and the tip of his nose were visible.
They ate it in the courtyard, the sigri glowing a soft orange between them. The fog was a memory now, but the cold remained. Rohan looked at his father’s tired face, at Amma’s gnarled hands, and at the stars beginning to prick the clear, cold sky. This year, the fog was so thick that
That evening, as the fog finally began to thin, revealing a pale, tired moon, Rohan returned home. His nose was running, his fingers were numb, but his heart was full. Amma was making gajar ka halwa —the quintessential winter dessert of grated carrots, milk, and sugar, cooked for hours on a slow fire. The kitchen was sticky with its sweet, nutty aroma. His father had returned, his story of a train that had been delayed by fourteen hours earning him the first bowl of the halwa.
Rohan smiled, pulling his own razai up to his chin. He didn’t mind. Winter in India was not just a season of cold. It was the season of smoke and peanuts, of hidden suns and rooster fights, of chai and halwa, of stories told in fog-thick voices. It was the season that made you appreciate warmth—not the warmth of the sun, but the warmth of a crowded kitchen, a shared blanket, and a hand holding a cup of tea. It was, he decided, the best season of all. One was a massive, dark-feathered brute with a
But the heart of the winter, the event they both awaited with trembling excitement, was the annual Murgi Bazaar —the chicken market—held on the last Sunday of December. It wasn't a market for buying, but for watching. The local butcher, a giant of a man named Kaleem Bhai, would set up a makeshift arena in an empty lot. The event was a rooster fight—illegal, dangerous, and utterly mesmerizing to a boy’s eyes.